Seeking Truffles in Burgundy

..An Expert And His Canine Co-Hunter

October marks the beginning of truffle season in France. This means that those few who are skilled in the fine art of unearthing the precious, deeply pungent and aromatic fungus from their hiding places in the ground are now hard at work, to the delight of all of us who can’t get enough of the gourmet stuff.

This week, Canadian newspaper The Globe and Mail has a fascinating portrait of one of France’s expert truffle hunters— and the canine companion who helps sniff out the flavourful mounds and dig them up. Based in Cortevaix, Burgundy, Olivier Devêvre presides over the 17th-century Le Cos-Piguet farm, where he and his trusty canine companion Chinook work side by side to locate and carefully harvest the farm’s finest truffles. These have been carefully cultivated over many years of painstaking labor– not to mention savoir-faire.

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